Although I would have been happy just walking the beach in front of rental every day we were there, the rest of the group wanted to hike in Oswald West State Park, which was just a few miles down the road.
Once we started walking the old-growth trail to the beach I was glad they had persuaded me to come. It reminded me a lot of the rain forests of Olympic National Park.
Here life and death are irrevocably linked, death giving birth to life timelessly.
The end of the forested trail opens up an impressive cove
and sea caves
It was impossible not to be impressed by this magnificent cove, much larger than the small cove by our rental, but the downside was that it also attracted too many people for my taste, as evidenced by the overflowing parking lots at the trailhead.
Although we haven’t vacationed on the Oregon Coast for the last few years, I’ve visited it regularly since 1967. So, when Jen asked us if we’d like to join her at Arch Cape for a week at the beach, I quickly agreed, especially since we would be joining Logan and Hannah. Arch Cape is just a few miles south of Cannon Beach, a tourist destination I used to visit regularly when I lived in Vancouver.
I’m not sure I’ve ever walked the beach at Arch Cape before, but it certainly has all the characteristics I identify with the Oregon Coast, like these rocky headlands with sea caves.
If I was willing to jump/wade a few streams, I could walk a mile and a half to an even more impressive outcropping and cave.
One day when we hiked this the tide was way out, and it was possible to walk around the headlands all the way to Cannon Beach.
Luckily, at 84 I had better sense than to try that and settled with examining the small tide pools at the base of the outcropping and turning back.
We did a very different hike on another day — hiking an old-growth forest at Oswald West State Park — but I hiked this beach four days of the five days we were there and felt better every day I hiked it. It’s almost as if the ocean’s ebb and flow is Nature’s way of putting us in touch with our Chi.
When visiting National Wildlife Refuges, it’s easy to forget that, no matter how long the auto tour is, you are only seeing a small part of the refuge, and there’s no way of knowing what the habitat is like in other parts of the refuge. Our recent trip to Bear River was a good reminder of that.
As Chat GPT points out, “Interestingly, the alternate route goes through areas usually closed to the public, including the O-Line and D-Line canal roads closer to the Great Salt Lake itself. That may actually provide some unusual birding opportunities this spring and summer, especially for nesting shorebirds like avocets and stilts.” It was right on both points.
We saw more ducks than I can remember seeing on previous trips, and some we had never seen there before. I suspect part of the reason for that is that the water was shallower than on the old auto tour. Consequently, we got a lot closer to ducks like this pair of Gadwalls,
this male Northern Shoveler,
and this male Ruddy Duck,
who didn’t seem to want his picture taken.
It’s easy to see why some visitors, particularly those who live nearby and visit often, would find the temporary, alternate auto tour even better than the regular auto tour.
I’ll have to admit that I thought that the reeds provided a spectacular backdrop for some of these shots.
Historically, the best shots I’ve gotten of Western Grebes and Clark’s Grebes have been taken on the auto tour at Bear River Migratory Bird Refuge. I realized we would probably be too early to get my favorite shots, babies riding on the back of adults, but I hoped to get shots of the grebe mating rituals.
Unfortunately, we only saw four or five grebes on the entire alternate route. If I hadn’t had such high expectations, I might have been satisfied with this shot of a Western Grebe
and this shot of a Clark’s Grebe,
but I didn’t drive 850 miles without expectations. Luckily, Expectations are exactly what keep me motivated to keep coming back year after year.
Chat GPT tells me that
The regular main auto tour route is currently scheduled to be closed from Saturday, April 4, 2026 through “mid-September” 2026 for a major maintenance and water-control structure replacement project.
The refuge states that the normal route and Unit 2 are expected to reopen by the start of Northern Utah’s youth waterfowl hunt weekend, which usually falls in mid-September.
so I will have to wait until next year to see if the grebes will return in the numbers that were previously there.
The good news, according to Chat GPT, is
Interestingly, the alternate route goes through areas usually closed to the public, including the O-Line and D-Line canal roads closer to the Great Salt Lake itself. That may actually provide some unusual birding opportunities this spring and summer, especially for nesting shorebirds like avocets and stilts.
As it turns out, I originally came here after fruitlessly looking for American Avocets in other areas for a couple of years. Even if I had never seen a grebe here, I would still return year after year just to see the American Avocets, and, luckily, we did see more Avocets than we ever have before. After hours of editing and deleting, I still have 55 photographs of Avocets that are good enough to post. But, I promise I would never post that many photos of a bird in a single post, or even a string of posts.
